Shipsterns Bluff, September '08'.
Of course they do! As you may or may not know the Oakley Surfing Life and billabong XXL big wave awards are in full swing. I'm proud to say I have an entry in both and Lucky enough for me I'm a finalist in the Oakley Surfing Life big wave awards. Also one of the other six finalist's is my good mate Marty Paradisis. The winner will be announced thursday the 19th of february in Bondi. What this means is not only the fact I have a chance at some serious coin but..... Oakley are going to organise the finalists a means of getting there, a comfortable bed to sleep in, free food and free alcohol. Sounds like the ingredients for an awesome party if you ask me!
Why big waves you ask?
Its simple. Where I've grown up (Macmasters beach) there has always been a huge presence for riding big wave's. That's what you did if the swell was there, if you surfed you surfed everyday, small or big. We may not get the swell's of the west coast but it does get big enough now and then to dust off your 7'10 and big enough to get your heart racing and get the big wave thrill. Big wave's are what I was taught and learnt are the most special part of surfing. Big swells are rare and give you a joy and feelings small waves can't. Once you've tried, you'll never let a big swell go unsurfed again. There's nothing like the anticipation of waiting for a large swell. We're always looking for them and you know if you've been there before, your going to be in for some seriously exciting times. During a swell always, there are moments of glory and of course what would they be without situations of unescapable trouble which, could be to the enjoyment of your mate's or, to their sheer terror. Which both I think is very exciting. I personally keep going back because there is something about harnessing the raw energy of the ocean, right under your feet. Then using this incredible power to roll down the huge water hills in such a manner that you get this feeling that cannot be explained with words but only by doing it yourself could you fully understand. There are a million more reasons why which I cant explain. This mean's you'll have to get out there and figure them out for yourself........ Good Luck. explode!
I think the paddle guys are still 'the shit' when it comes to big wave surfing, doing it the original way. It takes much more guts and determination and I think you gain more satisfaction from it. That's why my favourite entries are from Grant 'Twiggy' Baker in the Monster Paddle section from Mavericks. Also check out James holmer-cross' entry from shipsterns in the ride of the year section in xxl. To see them go to these links.....
